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Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint- 1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008, professionally referred to as Yves Saint-Laurent, was a French dressmaker who, in 1961, founded his eponymous fashion label. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers in the twentieth century. In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent are often credited with both spurring the couture's rise." He was ready to adapt his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period. He approached fashion from a different perspective by wanting women to seem comfortable yet elegant at an equivalent time. He is also credited with having introduced the tuxedo suit for ladies and was known for his use of non-European cultural references, and non-white models.
Personal life and career
Young designer Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of that same year. During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff (who was then editor-in-chief of the French edition of Vogue magazine and a connection of his father). De Brunhoff, known by some as a considerate one that encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he become a dressmaker. Saint Laurent would eventually consider a course of study at the Chambre Syndicale de la high fashion, the council which regulates the high fashion industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his advice and, leaving Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as a star pupil. Shortly after his win, he brought a variety of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown that morning by Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morning which the young man couldn't have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot
A lady's trouser suit by Yves Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent was within the military for 20 days before the strain of hazing by fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a hospital, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior. This exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâce hospital, where he was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs, and subjected to electroconvulsive therapy. Saint Laurent himself traced the origin of both his mental problems and his drug addictions to this time in hospital.
He was the primary French couturier to return out with a full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line, although Alicia Drake credits this move with Saint Laurent's wish to democratize fashion; others point out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines at an equivalent time – the House of Yves Saint Laurent merely announced its line first. The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened on the rue de Tournon within the 6th arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve He ended up doing many costumes for her in films such as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, and Love to Eternity.
During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one among Paris's "jet set". He was often seen at clubs in France and NY City, like Regine's and Studio 54, and was known to be both an important drinker and a frequent user of cocaine. When he was not actively supervising the preparation of a collection, he spent time at his villa in Marrakech, Morocco. In the late 1970s, he and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, near Deauville, France.
In February 2009, an auction of 733 items was held by Christie's at the Grand Palais, starting from paintings by Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art within the 1950s; before the sale, Bergé commented that the choice to sell the gathering was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "it has lost the greater a part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for the creation of a replacement foundation for AIDS research.
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